There's something mesmerizing, almost hypnotic about guilloché. Those intricate, repetitive, overlapping spirals draw you in until you get lost in its delicate beauty.
Invented in the 18th century, guilloché is a decorative technique in which a precise, repetitive pattern is mechanically engraved into metal through engine turning on a rose engine lathe.
This new mechanical technique was more efficient and less time consuming than the previous hand engraving techniques and allowed artisans to create more complex and delicate designs. However, the craft itself was still quite expensive, which made guilloché pieces only attainable for the wealthy.
To showcase these exquisite spirograph patterns, designers, jewelers and artists, such as Feberge, would often coat their designs in powdered enamel and then heat treat them transforming them in to colorful works of art.
Guilloché began to fall out of popularity in the late 1940s, however Norwegian jewelry company David-Andersen kept the 200-year-old tradition alive well into the 1950s with their wildly popular guilloché butterfly and leaf brooches.
This elegant locket is one of David Andersen's earlier pieces, dating to the late 1900s to early 1910s. It was designed by internationally renowned Norwegian metalsmith Gustav Gaudernack, who was considered one of the great metal artists of the Art Nouveau style. Gaudernack also was known for his award-winning, complex enamel techniques, which he perfected while working for David Andersen.
One look at this piece and it's easy to see why Gaudernack's work was so lauded. Crafted in sterling silver with gold vermeil, this luminous double sided white enamel guilloché locket practically glows with the slightest movement.
The delicately hand painted pink flowers and green foliage add just the right amount of sweet romance and beauty, making it the perfect piece to carry a loved one's photo or cherished memento close to your heart.
Locket comes with a vermeil double cable link chain.
Date: Late 1900s to early 1910s
Materials: Sterling silver vermeil, enamel
Measurements: Locket: 1 1/8" x 1 1/8" Chain: 16"
Markings: 13, 925, S, early David Anderson maker's mark (dating 1888-1925)
Condition: Very Good
Locket vermeil has light surface scratches consistent with age and wear. There is the slightest bit of wear to the very edge of the enamel on the front of the locket near the bottom. Otherwise the enamel is in perfect condition. The vermeil chain has lost most of its coating making it more silver than gold. One of the double links is broken and is only held by a single link.
Cleaning and Care
Clean gently with warm soap and water and a soft bristled brush. Do not over scrub or use a polishing cloth as it will remove the vermeil finish.