Edwardian Berlin Iron Fancy Guard Chain

A token of German patriotism and modesty with a touch of "f*ck the patriarchy," Berlin iron is considered by some to be a symbol of early 19th century feminism. 

Originating in the late 1790s at the Gleiwitz Foundry in Silesia, Prussia, this black-lacquered cast iron metal was created by skilled metalwork artisans who would carve their intricate designs in wax before creating a mold and casting it in molten iron. After cooling, each diminutive piece was hand finished and coated in black lacquer. 

The earliest designs were mostly Neo-classical -- often utilizing medallions and cameos featuring classical figures. Around 1815, artisans began to take a more naturalistic approach and incorporated leaves and flowers in their iron pieces. By 1825, the style shifted once more, this time toward Gothic Revival where pieces began to resemble church windows and wrought iron gates. 

Shortly after Berlin iron's inception, the process was taken up by a manufacturer in Horovice, Bohemia as well as by the Royal Berlin Foundry in Berlin -- that is until Napoleon marched on Berlin in 1806, confiscating their casting molds and bringing them back to France for production. 

However, it wasn't until the Napoleonic Wars of 1813 that Berlin iron started to gain international attention.

During the War of Liberation, Prussia had exhausted most of its funds in the war effort. In order to keep Napoleon and his troops at bay, the government turned to its wealthy for help.

While the men offered their brawn, well-to-do ladies were asked to donate their gold jewelry to the Royal Treasury in exchange for Berlin iron jewelry. The jewelry they received in return was inscribed with the motto "Ich gab geld um Eisen" (I gave gold for iron).

The campaign was so successful that Prussia was able to fill its war coffers and ultimately defeat Napoleon (who, lest we forget, stripped the civil rights of women, children and minorities in France among a number of other abhorrent things).

Coincidentally, the campaign also contributed to a social and fashion shift where the wearing of gold became a faux pas in Germany and was viewed as unpatriotic. As a result, a number of high end jewelry stores began offering Berlin iron pieces to satisfy the newfound demand.

Unfortunately, given the nature of iron and its tendency to oxidize and rust, not many Berlin iron pieces have survived, so each piece is a rare treat and a wonderful glimpse into a time where women helped bring down a chauvinist tyrant by using the power of their jewelry. 

This stunning Berlin iron guard chain is not quite as old as its Georgian ancestors. It hails from around the turn of the century during the popular Georgian Revival period. 

Unlike the more common, simple chains, this gothic beauty features delicate iron and cage-work beads throughout. 

It can be worn long or doubled (or possibly tripled); plain or loaded up with charms -- whatever your dark heart desires!